Asakusa today is a tourist area. One can buy souvenires here, try traditional snacks and find out about his future using fortune telling machines.
But it hasn't always been that way. Between XVII and XIX century a red light district called Yoshiwara was here.

Asahi is one of the most popular and most recognized beer brand in Japan.
The golden object on the top of Asahi Beer Tower (Asahi Breweries Headquarters), is supposed to visualize beer foam.
Unfortunately it is being associated with something somewhat different. Young Japanese say they meet under kin no unchi. Don't ask me what that means.

Transvestites and transsexuals can be seen on the streets very rarely. Yet, it probably doesn't say much about strength of the community in Japan. I can't say. I haven't spoken to any of them.

The Kaminari Mon gate is a very recognizable tourist spot. The red lantern appears in almost every travel guide. Right behind the gate there is a street called Nakamise Dori. It leads to Senso-ji, the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo.

Nakamise Dori reminds me much of Krakow Cloth Hall. Each side of the street is full of stalls with fans, swords, kimonos, shoes, snacks, animal figures and many other interesting souvenirs.
It is a tourist area but... I can't see any tourists around.

Japanese wooden clogs called geta are nothing like Dutch or Russian ones. They are being used with traditional clothing (like kimono).


Ones like these can be often seen on tiny geisha or maiko feet.


It is impossible to walk for hours without having a proper meal. This soup happened to be very spicy, but I finished it all up anyway.

Japanese version of Hollywood's celebrity pavement. You can find hand imprints of famous actors, musicians and comedians in here.


High number of pre WWII buildings remained in Asakusa. Other parts of town were not that lucky...


Senso-ji temple lanterns.

This is one of traditional Japanese sweets. It is called ningyoyaki, which means fried mermaid (?). They are made of pancake-like dough and stuffed with anko, sweet red beans paste. Still, if you don't expect bean filling, you won't recognize it.

For something closer to European culture - chocolate glazed bananas.

Senso-ni temple was originally built in VII century. During WWII it was almost completely destroyed. Eight years later it was rebuild and since, it is a rebirth and health symbol for Japanese.

Five Storied Pagoda is relatively new. Reinforced with concrete and steel, with giant pillar of Japanese Cypress in the center it is very flexible and resistant to earth tremors.




River Sumida goes through Asakusa. Next to the bridge strange structure appears. It looks more like in Thailand than Japan.

In the background we can see one of many capsule hotels. Exhausted with overwork and after work drinking with friends sarariman (or riman - both stand for "salary man"), find their shelter here.
There will be more about capsule hotels in part XIII.

Asahi "beer foam" once again.

Speaking of beer... it is about time to have one or two. Not just at any old place, but at the oldest bar in town.
The name is Kamiya and it is open for business since 1889. Before that, there were no western style bars in Tokyo whatsoever!


Kamiya is not really a tourist spot. Actually it is quiet remote.
This place has a soul.
The interior looks like it has been brought from the past with time machine. And so are clients.


Denki-bran is the pride of the bar. It is made of wine, brandy and something else mixed together. Interestingly enough electric current is let through the drink during production process.
Denki-bran should be drunk along with beer - that'll get you hammered!

Alcohol helps making new friends. I got to meet a guy with similar interests to me. No, it is not what you think. I'm talking about photography.

KAMPAI!
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