Basing on my observation it is much more difficult for Japanese to master English than it is for European.

On the other side even though it is relatively not that difficult to master nihon-go (Japanese language) as a tool, understanding it's nuances and polite forms could be something out of reach for gaijin.

Face cream pictured above is labeled as "perfect whip". I bet that's not what the producer had on mind.

Building site worker in his overalls.

The other day I was going out for walk. Right after I left our place I heard man shouting:

- Summimasen!

He apologized for inconvenience due to road works.
Safety first!

The place I'm heading is only few stops away.

Konnichiwa! Akihabara ni youkoso - Good morning! Welcome to Akihabara.

Akihabara (also called Akiba by most devoted fans) is a place for hobbyists. Japanese hobbyists (known as otaku) are one of the kind.

The term otaku could be translated as "geek" or "nerd" although that is misleading - it doesn't have anything to do with succeeding at school.

On the other hand it is about all kinds of hobby. Starting from collecting anime based plastic action figures, photography, trains and stations, electronics, movies, costumes up to things completely abstract.

Actually everything can make a subject of total devotion for otaku.

Pictured above - Chuo Dori, Akiba's main street.

Otaku is only one of many Japanese male types. The other group I've noticed are fashionables and "pretty faces" (like the one below). Both types unite often as sarariman (eng. salary man) - office workers rushing to work every morning.

Otaku make little of their looks. They wear baggy clothes, flannel shirts stuck into trousers, backpacks and glasses. They are hardly lady-killers and very often just make women flee.

Anime (cartoons) and manga (comic books) fans are numerous groups here.

I have found a shop for real addicts deep down below the ground level (four stores down!). One can buy comic books here, regular and porn books, albums, films, computer games, action figures, costumes, etc. Taking pictures is forbidden. Here's the only one I managed to "steal".

If you feel like having coffee and enjoy the company of young girls dressed as French maids, try one of many maid cafe's (maido cafe) located here. Otaku are very keen on spending time there, regardless of high prices.

This kind of fetish combines as follows:

• underage - the girls are very young or at least stylized to look that way;
• subservience;
• much beloved costumes.

For this kind of pleasure (drinking coffee and talking to the girls) otaku are ready to pay a lot.

This girl let me take a photo with her under one condition - "do it quickly, if my boss sees me, I might loose my job!"

Almost all of the buildings at Chuo Dori are:

• electronics shops;
• comic book shops;
• anime and manga shops;
• costume shops;
• action figure shops;
• "sex shops" and "porno shops";
• video game arcades.

If you get hungry, try some of delicious takoyaki (octopus fried in dough) served in a small shop pretty much in the middle of the street.

Akihabara isn't only electronics and toys. Get off the main road, climb some stairs and walk through the roof. You will end up at the beautiful Kanda Myogin temple.

In special shops located next to most of the temples, amulets for different occasions are available. Ones for luck in love, prosperity, road safety (carried by kids on their way to school) and many others.

This area is special. Apart from mentioned You can buy an amulet that brings you luck with... buying new electronics.
Integrated circuit is embroidered on it.

For the sake of safety, cars must be consecrated. The name of the car on the picture pronounced by Japanese sounds... borubo. There is no "v" nor "l" in Japanese!

The ceremony, children attend at the age of three and seven (for girls) and 5 (for boys), reminds me much of catholic Holy Communion (although it's completely different).

Small tea house is waiting for a tired traveler. Outside...

...and inside.

Walking further that way I find a park full of senior citizens practicing their hobby - drawing and painting. The matter of actual talent isn't the most important issue here. What is important is that they have a great time doing it.

Yushima Seido is a former school building of Shoheizaka.

Next to each and almost every temple, one can find wooden plates, people hang on the wall after writing down their wishes.

Ochanomizu train station wouldn't be standing out if not for it's name. It stands for "water for tea", more less. Green tea it is, because black tea is called kocha, not ocha.

In part 14 we will come back to Akiba one more time.