Passing by Ochanomizu we will get to Surugadaishita where guitar shops, located one next to another, fill the whole street.

Guitars, just like electronics, are surprisingly cheap in Japan. Not only Japanese, also American ones.
I could have tried every one of them. If only I had more time...

Famous English brand Zemaitis can be also found in the area. The company is known for very expensive and luxurious custom guitars hand made for Jimmy Hendrix, Dave Gilmour, Keith Richards, Eric Clapton, Paul McCartney, Joe Perry, George Harrison and Mike Oldfield.


This instrument was priced at 10,5 million JPY which clearly defines company's target.

Apart from Zemaitis one can find other interesting instruments, like Escape folding guitar.

It is time to say something about Japanese food.
Soba bar (above) was so small several people could hardly squeeze in.
The vending machine built in the front wall, is actually a ticket machine one can order meal by simply pressing right button.
For only 450 JPY one can have delicious noodle.
Noodles are very popular in Japan. The most common are:
- udon - thick (diameter around 4-5 mm), made of wheat;
- ramen - grain noodle with egg - very much like ones made in Poland;
- soba - buckwheat noodle of very interesting taste.

Backstreets are tight but clean. People grow pot plants to make concrete surroundings more friendlier.

Rice wine (sake) consumption, isn't any smaller than the one of beer. These bottles are not waiting for milkman.

Walking further that way, we will get go Kanda, where 150 shops offer over 10.000.000 second hand books.


Ueno. Less glitz, less trend chasing, more normal, everyday life.
Tsutaya on the right - multimedia store and video rental in one.

If you get of the main street and dive into one of those narrow alleys on the left you will find Ameyoko - colorful market with lots of stalls, bars, game centers, small restaurants and pubs. People come here to forget about their problems, meet old friends and make new ones.


One of the bars draws us in.

In the huge pot, tripe is being prepared. It is very different from Polish one but also very tasty. Probably another cow stomachs are used here (does cow really have four of them?).
Apart from tripe, other simple snacks, beer and sake are served here.


It is time to order something. Nobody though of foreigners but fortunately Masami is with me to help.
Even the prices are written down with Japanese numbers.

Smoked calamari - pure protein. Oishii! Yakitori (on the sides) - chicken meat grilled on the stick.

Hoppi - beer-like alcohol free drink. The owner, when asked, told me the history of the drink. It was invented right after WWII, when people couldn't afford real beer.

Pachinko - another nationwide popular phenomenon. The rules seem to be quite simple - shoot the ball with appropriate speed to put it into the right hole. Looks like the ball bounces off the pins randomly.

Apparently professionals are able to predict how the ball goes.

Some of the pachi-pro (that is how they are called) come in early in the morning and leave in the late afternoon making their living just playing.

In pachinko places, air is thick of cigarette smoke. Noisy music is supposed to keep people motivated and concentrated. I don't know about that...
Japanese law doesn't allow gambling for money. That's why if you win, you have to take cigarettes and alcohol for reward or - here's the catch - exchange it for special coupons. With coupons in your pocket you leave the place and go around the corner to exchange it for cash.

Coming back home late at night... Shooting moonlit wires end my day.
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